This B.C. attraction has a surprisingly interesting history

| July 5, 2019 in Travel

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You’ve probably heard of Nakusp’s Halcyon Hot Springs before, well-known for its healing mineral waters and comfortable amenities in the midst of nature — but you may not be aware of the long and somewhat bizarre history preceding the resort that stands there today.

The First Nations people in the Arrow Lakes area, predominantly Sinixt First Nations, were aware of the lithium-laden waters and its benefits for centuries before Europeans came to the area. And it was with the help of First Nations people who he had befriended that Captain Robert Sanderson, a European engineer who was helping to build and run steamships on the Arrow Lakes, discovered the hot springs.

Halcyon’s beginning

Sanderson was the first European to recognize the potential of the hot springs. In 1890 he purchased hundreds of acres of crown land and started building a hotel that would allow guests to enjoy the waters, which were known for their healing properties even way back in the day.

He also came up with the name Halcyon, after a Greek Goddess who tried to drown herself while grieving the loss of her husband. But, instead of drowning, she turned into a Kingfisher bird (psst.. the restaurant at Halcyon is called the Kingfisher Restaurant). She was known to calm the wind and waves during the winter solstice, which is where the term ‘Halcyon Days’ comes from. Yep, that’s a thing!

Photo Credit: Halcyon; the Captain's Paradise - A history of Halcyon Hot Springs
The first hotel

The hotel officially opened in 1894. In 1897, Sanderson and his partner, Nathan Lay, sold the property to Robert Brett and David McPherson, a doctor from Ontario and a politician from Alberta, for a little over $20,000. You can’t get much for that price these days!

Healing and hedonism

This is where things start to get interesting. Brett and McPherson got right to work, doubling the size of the hotel and adding several cottages to increase occupancy. They even bottled Halcyon’s water to be shipped around the world.

Photo Credit: Halcyon; the Captain's Paradise - A history of Halcyon Hot Springs
The second hotel

Photo Credit: Halcyon; the Captain's Paradise - A history of Halcyon Hot Springs
The cottages

They called Halcyon a sanitarium, boasting the hot springs’ ability to heal a variety of ailments. But healing wasn’t all that was happening at the popular hotel…

There was also partying. And a lot of it.

Photo Credit: Halcyon; the Captain's Paradise - A history of Halcyon Hot Springs
"The Halcyon Water is noted for its wonderful efficiency in curing all forms of rheumatism and eliminating metallic poisons from the system."

In the early 1900s, Halcyon hosted numerous extravagant banquets and balls at a barroom near the hotel, where attendees would drink, gamble and dance until sunrise. If you were looking for a good time, Halcyon was the place to be.

Things changed when General Frederick Burnham purchased the hotel in 1924.

A ruleless rulemaker

Burnham was a well-known medical doctor and war hero, and upon purchasing Halcyon, the focus returned to health and wellness. Over the next 30 years, Halcyon became a world-renowned place of healing — but this era is also known for being a tad strange.

Burnham was known to be charitable, keeping the costs of the spa low, including the examinations that he offered guests. He felt that the hot springs should be available to everyone, not just the rich.

Photo Credit: Halcyon; the Captain's Paradise - A history of Halcyon Hot Springs
General Frederick Burnham

This also meant he couldn’t pay his staff very well (less than minimum wage), but it seems that Burnham felt that certain rules did not apply to him because he was an important doctor running an important spa. However, he sure did seem to enjoy imposing rules on others, and while he was known for his charity, he was perhaps equally as well-known for his eccentricity.

Smoking was not permitted on the premises, as Burnham had a theory that smoking would be the leading cause of cancer (we admit he was onto something there). Alcohol was also prohibited, although rumour has it that Burnham would confiscate the liquor and keep it for himself, and preferred guests were still allowed to get boozy.

Burnham had many strict rules for Halcyon guests, including a no-bathing-suits-allowed rule for the hot springs. There were separate pools for men and women, but apparently Burnham would frequent the women’s pool on occasion. Yikes.

Some have claimed that the trails surrounding the hotel would often be closed in the early hours of the morning so that Burnham could run around them without any clothes on. This guy really liked to be naked.

Photo Credit: Halcyon; the Captain's Paradise - A history of Halcyon Hot Springs
Joey the bear

A number of different animals could also be found at Halcyon during this time, including monkeys, canaries, chickens, goats, and even a pet bear named Joey. Most famous was Jenny the mule, who would go down to the steamship (The Minto) when she heard its whistle blow to help guests carry up their luggage — no guide needed. Now that’s a smart ass!

Photo Credit: Halcyon; the Captain's Paradise - A history of Halcyon Hot Springs
Jenny the mule

Burnham was known to preach and give long-winded speeches (perhaps a bit on the nutty side). He had no children and would apparently fight with his wife, Anna, frequently — but he also built a Chapel on the grounds for her after she died, which still stands on the property to this day.

As many weird rumours there are about Burnham and his reign at Halcyon, the sanitarium was a success for many years. People came from far and wide to benefit from the healing mineral waters, which at the time were thought to clean the blood and help with many other conditions. One source claims that there was a room full of crutches and wheelchairs left by guests who no longer needed them. The great mountain peak across from the resort is even named after him — Mount Burnham.

Photo Credit: Halcyon; the Captain's Paradise - A history of Halcyon Hot Springs
The Minto at the Halcyon wharf

The economy slowed by the 1950s, and after The Minto ceased operation in 1954 (Halcyon was only accessible by water at the time), it seemed the spa might be doomed. The hotel burned down in 1955, taking Burnham along with it.

Burnham is burried alongside his wife on the Halcyon grounds, next to the Chapel that he erected in her memory — the only building that still stands from that time.

Photo Credit: NowMedia
The Chapel at Halcyon

Halcyon today

Rebuilding of the current Halcyon began in 1998. Today, a beautiful resort and several cottages offer a comfortable stay for guests, who still travel from all over to experience the healing mineral pools.

Halcyon continued Burnham’s tradition of keeping the pools accessible to the general public, with affordable rates for ‘dips’ or day passes for non-guests.

Photo Credit: Halcyon Hot Springs

A focus on wellness also remains, with an on-site spa, yoga retreats, leisure activities, plenty of access to nature and more. However, you can feel free to treat yourself to a nice glass of wine or cocktail while enjoying amazing food and views at the Kingfisher Restaurant.

Oh, and bathing suits are required in the springs now.



Halcyon Hot Springs Village & Spa is a resort located a 35 km drive north of the town of Nakusp on Highway 23. Halcyon is open from 8 a.m. - 10 p.m. Sunday through Friday and 8 a.m. - 11 p.m. on Saturdays and during the Summer Holiday Season. The resort offers accommodations, from comfy cottages to cozy cabins and luxurious chalets, a gourmet restaurant, a spa, and other activities within the resort and in surrounding areas. You can also book events and weddings at this serene hot spring resort. 

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